Real World? What Real World?

Home Again...with Maps

2004-05-31T08:17:00.000-07:00

I am back in Canada and attempting to organize all my stories and pictures into some sort of order. Here's where I went

The Route

Circuits Around Australia

So far the following sections are finished:
Australia Part 1
Singapore
Malaysia
Thailand
Laos
Cambodia
Australia Part 2
Australia Park 3

Click on a country here or to the right to jump to the start.

Sydney...again but much colder

2004-05-16T19:04:00.000-07:00

<< Uluru | The Route | Home >>

Now That's One Big Rock

2004-05-14T09:17:00.000-07:00

First glimpses of that famous rock

Me and a big rock

Erin, Kirsten and Robyn at a chilly sunrise

Pink sunrise at Uluru

Tourists ignoring the sign

The Olgas - Not the biggest but still large rocks

One last campsite at The MacDonnell Ranges

<< Nowhere, OZ | The Route | Sydney >>

Miles of Nothingness

2004-05-10T21:47:00.000-07:00

We hit the road from Katherine for two full days of driving. The Northern Territory is the least densely populated region of Australia. The Stuart Highway from Katherine to Alice Springs drives right through the heart of the desolate outback. As the miles clicked by we watched the scenery change from tropical to harsh dry landscape.
Northern Territory roads are famous for two things. First, there are no speed limits on most of the major roads. Second, transport trucks are known as road trains as they often have up to 5 or 6 long flat beds behind them. Passing them on the two lane highway made for quite the intimidating experience at first.
Near the end of the first day of driving we stopped at the Devil's Marbles. This is just the sort of random freaky geological configuration one could only encounter in Australia. For miles stretched giant rocks eroded into near perfect spherical shapes and balanced in precarious positions. The sun was low so the lighting was perfect for an extended photo session.

The bizarre Devil's Marbles

Potential Team Reak album cover???

We also made a short pitstop in Wycliff which hold the distinct honour of being the UFO siting capitol of Australia.

Officially in X-Files Territory

With aliens on the brain we pushed on after dusk when we encountered some bizarre lights heading towards. The strange vehicle seemed to be nearly on top of us on a head on collision course one moment and miles away the next. It turned out to be only a bus and the flat landscape caused strange illusions with the headlights. But we still had huge laughs of our fear of aliens coming to probe our brains (and fearfully other things.)

Gas prices were a ridiculous $1.35/litre in the middle of nowhere

We stayed the night at a campground in Ti Tree. After driving nearly 1000 kilometres south there was a marked difference in the temperature. We pulled out our toques and retired straight away so we could start another day of driving.
The next morning we drove two hours to Alice Springs and then continued the five more to Uluru. Considering we were driving to what is arguably Australia's most famous tourist destination we were surprised at the small number of vehicles on the road.

<< Katherine | The Route | Uluru >>

A One Year Anniversary in Katherine

2004-05-09T17:34:00.000-07:00

On the way to Katherine there is a beautiful spot called Edith Falls. We nearly didn’t stop there but we were tired of driving for the day and thought we would take advantage of an early end to the day. We were delighted that we did. The lovely Edith Falls empty into a clear deep pool about 400 metres across. It was the perfect spot for a cooling swim and some relaxation.

Edith Falls near dusk time

The campground itself was also a pleasant surprise. That night we set up our tents on lush green grass rather than hard packed dirt.

The third and perhaps most agreeable surprise was the lack of mosquitoes. I can’t be sure but I suspect this was a result of the ubiquitous toads that we encountered everywhere at the campground. Perhaps these large green creatures had managed to consume all the mozzies in the area. Regardless, I was not complaining. We sat around that evening enjoying wine from a box while Erin taught us Mau. Taught not exactly being the correct word since the idea of the game is that new players have to figure out the rules for themselves and new ones are made up all the time. Definitely good for some laughs.

The next day we completed the drive into Katherine. We spent some time wandering around the town, stocking up at the shopping centre and checking our email. We decided not to stay out at the gorge itself because the campground was crowded and overpriced. Instead we stay at Springvale campground a quiet spot on the other side of Katherine.

We shared out campground the next couple of nights with two ducks that we nicknamed Toast and Quackers. They wandered around everywhere together mostly looking to steal any of our food that might hit the ground. Well any food except tofu. Apparently the ducks were not fans of chewy soy products.

The other creatures sharing our campground were a family of wallabies. At one point around dusk I managed to count ten at the neighbouring campsite. I was amazed as I watched them. When I came to Australia I imagined marsupials of all sorts to be rare exotic creatures that I would only have the chance to see in zoos. After a year in Australia I had seen dozens of wallabies and kangaroos but it didn’t make spotting them in the wild any less thrilling.

A small wallaby obviously unfazed by photographers

I came to Katherine gorge to canoe beneath the imposing cliffs so that is just what we did. Kirsten and Robyn in one bright yellow canoe, Erin and I in the other.

Beautiful Katherine Gorge

The attendant at the rental shop directed us to look for the stream at the top of the first section of the river. From there we could dock our boats and hike into some waterfalls. Apparently, it would be obvious where to stop based on ‘distinct change in vegetation’. Since no one from Team Reak was an ecologist this was not so obvious to us. Instead we took our cue from the half a dozen other bright yellow canoes.

The pools themselves were crowded and with only parts being in the sun real estate was at a premium. But we lounged long enough for our arms to get a second wind.

Post waterfall swim….Go Team Reak

We stayed a little too long at the waterfalls and then taking pics of the gorge and had to boot it back to return the boats on time. Along the way tourists from the vast 100 seater tour boats were taking our pictures. I guess we must have looked very striking paddling along in our bright canoes decked out in sexy life jackets.

Lifejacket yellow is so my colour

While in Katherine, Kirsten and I celebrated our one year anniversary of travelling!

<< Kakadu | The Route | Miles from Anywhere, NT >>

Ka-ka-dooooooo

2004-05-06T18:21:00.000-07:00

Although it would have been easy to stay several days in Litchfield we had to keep moving and Kakadu was the next destination. Kakadu covers a massive 8000 square miles but we were able to see only the mere fraction that is reachable by sealed roads.

Just before entering the park we stopped to replenish our water supplies. We met an Irish couple who claimed to be knowledgeable on all things Kakadu. First off they told us that we were going to need much more water. (Except that I knew the campgrounds had water plus there was a store within the park) Then when they learned we would have to stick to the sealed roads they informed us to “not even bother.” Thanks for the advice but we decided to still see what we could.

Entering Kakadu

We spent our first night at the Kakadu which with a pool and a pub was not exactly the definition of roughing it. We relaxed at the pool until we were eventually officially creeped out by all the middle aged men checking us out. That night the pub was a welcome refuge from the monstrous mosquitoes.

Kakadu mozzies are unlike any I have previously encountered. They bite through clothing and are undeterred by 95% deet. Rather they seem incited to bite harder by it. The next morning we discovered that we were camped mere metres from a billabong. A mistake I desperately hoped we would never repeat. Our campsite was also infiltrated by scary Hitchcock type birds. At one point we left some tortillas unattended on the picnic table for just a few moments. We returned to find a half a dozen of them pecking through the package.

The day we stopped at the visitor centre and Jabiru on the way to our next campsite. Jabiru was lauded as a bustling commercial centre but all we seemed to find was a concrete strip mall with really terrible coffee. It was on to Merl to setup a camp for the night. We embarked on the road but had not proceeded very far when the discovered the road had been washed out. Unsure if the Reak Mobile would handle the water we tested it out but decided to give it an attempt but with only Kirsten, the driver in the car in order to minimize the weight.

Now what?

While we were setting up the tents a couple of German girls asked if they could camp at the neighbouring spot. They wanted to be near some other females. There were very few other sites occupied and it was nice to be visiting a spot outside the high tourist season. The German girls proceeded to pump up a massive air mattress and we, with our thin foam mats, had extreme mattress envy.

We decided to complete the Bardedjilidji circuit before heading for Ubirr to watch the sunset. All along the path at Nourlangie were numbers obviously corresponding to a guide that we had not obtained. Robyn decided to compose her own tour for us.

’And here we have number 4 it is another rock. Like some rocks it can be hard but like other rocks it can also be soft. There is painting on the rock that has much significance of some sort to the Aboriginal people’

Kirsten poses on some hard/soft(?) rocks

The sunset at Ubirr was lovely even with the cloud cover. We walked up to the top of the rock and gazed out over the wetlands. Apparently during the wet season the entire plain is flooded. At this time of the year most of the water has receded but enough pools remain to reflect the red light from the sunset. A truly beautiful effect.

Sunset at Ubirr

Erin, Robyn and Kirsten enjoying the view

An amazing location indeed

We spent another night enduring the wretched mosquitoes. We headed to bed early once again to gain some refuge. The cries of dingos howling at the full moon were the last things we heard.

Our final morning at Kakadu was spent exploring Nourlangie. There were stacks of Aborginal paintings. Some of them quite old but some of them fairly recent possibly even painted in the last twenty years. The Aboriginal history is so incredibly ancient yet amazingly still practiced today with very little change. My first inclination was shock that 2000 year old paintings could just be covered up with new drawings. But after visiting Nourlangie I realized that the Aboriginal’s opinion of preserving their ancient artifacts was different than ours. To them repainting the drawings was in essence keeping the spirit of the original artist alive.

A more recent example of Aboriginal paintings

On our way out of Kakadu we stopped for a picnic lunch and managed to amuse ourselves with the hundreds of ants. We dropped bits of our lunch on the ground and watched as within seconds the ants had discovered it. The way the organize themselves so quickly and efficiently. How is they haven’t taken over the world?

So overall we saw some beautiful parts of Kakadu even while sticking to the sealed roads. However there is definitely more plus all the great swimming spots are on the 4wd tracks. We decided to cut our time there short in order to head to somewhere we could fully immerse ourselves in cool deep water.

Most expensive gas price so far is 112.9 cents/litre.

<< Darwin to Litchfield | The Route | Katherine >>

Escape to the Top End

2004-05-04T13:15:00.000-07:00

After three months of living and working in the Brisbane area it was time to travel again. My youngest sister Erin and her friend Robyn had flown into Brisbane (both freshly graduated from university) and Kirsten was returning from her job in Eidsvold, a small town in rural Queensland. Our last night in Brisbane was spent at the Manly Pub for a few drinks.

Chris and I at the Manly pub

Robbie and Sue

The next day we visited the Manly waterfront. It was Erin and Robyn’s first glimpse at the Australian coast.

Kirsten, Alicia, Erin and Robyn at Manly Harbour

Then we were off on the Virgin Blue flight to Darwin. In front of us, as we walked out onto the runway to board the plane we spotted a mysterious character. This young man, perhaps in his late 20s, was dressed sharply in dark pants and a white collared shirt however upon closer inspection his clothes were dirty and torn He limped slowly across the tarmac and as I approached him a terrible stench emanating from his body overwhelmed me. I had never before encountered someone in such conditions boarding an airplane. My curiosity about this man’s peculiar condition plagued me throughout the flight. When we arrived in Darwin I watched as an older couple met the man and welcomed him home. It made me happy to know that no matter what turmoil this man had endured he had a home to which to return.

The Lonely Planet had described Darwin as Australia’s most cosmopolitan city but other than the massive MGM Grand I saw little signs of sophistication. Sadly what we did encounter were dozens of Aboriginal people wandering aimlessly throughout the streets. Although I had been in Australia for nearly a year this was the only type of experience I would ever have with an Aboriginal person. I knew that there was so much more to their cultural but I had not had the opportunity to learn much about it. I was hoping that this time in the Northern Territory, a place held deeply sacred for the Aboriginal people would enlighten me on their fascinating cultural.

Just really liked these painted flowers

A couple of hours wandering the streets of Darwin gave us a gist of the city’s history. Stories of the repeated attacks endured during World War II and the disastrous Cyclone Tracy which flattened the city in 1974 were pounded into our heads ad naseum. It was time to return for a pleasant veg out session at the hostel pool.

Did you ever hear the one about the Canadian girl who found a thong?

We picked up our rental car, quickly dubbed the REAK (Robyn, Erin, Alicia, Kirsten) mobile. We lucked out at the rental shop when gathering our camping gear and the nice smelling very cute attendant through in plenty of extras. Then we were on our way to Litchfield National Park. On the way into the park we passed by hundreds of termite mounds. I was disconcerted to know that these massive piles were made by thousands of tiny termites scavenging the countryside for building materials.

Kirsten and I pose briefly near the scary termite mounds

We camped at a no frills spot near the Buley Falls. The water from the taps was brown and undrinkable but the location was serene. Our site looked out across a luscious valley over which the next morning we watched the sun rise in a brilliant fiery red ball from the comfort of our tent.

The Buley water hole was a great place to spend our first afternoon. We sprawled out on the rocks and relaxed. Luckily the warning from the signs did not need to be heeded.

Kirsten, Erin and Robyn relaxing in the pools

Sound advice

The next morning we hiked from the Buley water hole to Florence Falls where we challenged one another to battle the current and reach the rock face beneath the falls.

Beautiful Florence Falls

The swimming spots were lovely and peaceful but the threat of crocodiles is always a serious threat in the Northern Territory. Saltwater crocodiles are the most dangerous sort and are ominously nicknamed the ‘maneating’ crocodile. However just like shark attacks in Australia their reputation is highly exaggerated. I read once that more people are killed by vending machines than crocodiles each year. Yet even though the risk is exceptionally low at Litchfield this time of year the occasional scary image still managed to flash its way into my head.

Ominous signs found throughout the top end of Australia

<< Sydney | The Route | Kakadu >>

Bridges and Beaches

2004-01-31T13:18:00.000-08:00

We left Dorrigo and headed down the coast. On the way we stayed one night near St. Stephens which is known for its koala population. We spent hours hiking around hoping to see one of these guys. And then we finally did. It was hanging out in the tree completely to oblivious to the growing crowd beneath it. Too lazy to care I guess. Why don't we have any pics of him I wonder???

Then we were in Sydney. We stayed in Kings Cross with its drug dealers and strip clubs. Lovely place to stay with the parents but it was conveniently located near everything we wanted to see. And it was cheap.

Resting after possibly the a truly boring tour of the Governors Mansion
Really? Another piece of furniture made from oak???

That would be the infamous Harbour Bridge behind us

I spent my final day in Sydney with my parents on Bondi Beach. It was packed and the weather was lovely. I put the final touches on my tan before heading back to Brissie to lose it while I worked for three months.

Mom and I at crowded Bondi

<< Dorrigo | The Route | Darwin >>

Back to the Coast

2004-01-27T13:13:00.000-08:00

We drove for a very long time and were no longer in the outback. We were in the Dorrigo. And it was green with waterfalls flowing everywhere we went. What a change.

Enjoying the view of yet another waterfall

We made our base in Dorrigo to explore the area which included some gorgeous nearby rainforest, beautiful farmland & forests and beaches on the coast.

The Big Banana in Coffs Harbour

Stopping to enjoy the view on the way back to Dorrigo

This rainbow was behind us
It was absolutely massive

Hiking the sanddunes to the beach

This had better be worth it
And was it ever. Our own private white sandy beach was on the other side

Not sure where this actually was
But it was pretty indicative of places we stayed

<< Broken Hill | The Route | Sydney >>

Stepping Out in the Outback

2004-01-22T13:11:00.000-08:00

On our drive from the Barossa to Broken Hill we stumbled upon a real ghost town. Tumbleweeds rolling down the street and all. At the edge of town was this field with weird "scupltures" (I guess you could call them that) All very random and typical of Australia.

???No idea what this guy is supposed to be???

You've heard the one about the Dingo and the Baby right?

There wasn't a whole lot doing in Broken Hill. It was this typical town just in the middle of absolute nowhere. It had a McDonalds and everything. But there was the hill (broken perhaps?) outside town where we caught a killer sunset. The rock carvings all depict a part of Austalia's history and culture.

That's Kirsie through the peephole

Enjoying the sunset

<< Barossa Valley | The Route | Dorrigo >>

Wine, Wine and More Wine

2004-01-19T22:07:00.000-08:00

More Random Big Things Seen in Austalia
I think this one is supposed to be a lobster

No we didn't transport to the Mississippi
Still in Oz near the Murray River

We headed up though South Austalia to the Barossa Valley famous for its wines including Penfolds and Wolf Blass (yum! yellow label!) It was a relaxing day spent driving from winery to winery taking advantage of all the free samples. Poor Dad was designated the responsible one. In the evening we enjoyed a BBQ complimented by the purchases of the day.

Kirsey and I enjoying some samples at Penfolds

Can't you put it down for a minute?

<< Melbourne | The Route | Broken Hill >>

Zoos and Scenic Drives

2004-01-18T11:44:00.000-08:00

We arrived in Melbourne and spent couple of days exploring which mostly meant eating in China Town, Greek Town and wandering around the shops. Its weird staying in hostels again especially with parents. But Mom did fanangle us our own room the second night where we hung out drinking beer and eating nachos.

Relaxing at the Melbourne Markets

Livestock!

We visited the Melbourne zoo so we would be sure to see native Aussie creatures in case we don't spot them in the wild once we leave the city.

Picked up our rental car and headed to the Great Ocean Road. It was one of the things I was most looking forward to on this trip and it didn't disappoint. But man was it ever cold. Isn't this supposed to be the summer?

More Great Ocean Road family frolicking

More Spectacular Scenery

<< Tasmania | The Route | Barossa Valley >>

More Tassie

2004-01-16T13:36:00.000-08:00

Onto Dove Lake in the Cradle Mountain National Park. We lucked out with good weather. It rains 7 out of 10 days of the year in this area. A nice walk around the lake. Hardly strenuous but relaxing if not for the hordes of other tourists. Everyone in Australia is escaping the summer heat in Tasmania I think.

Australians love their big things. This Tasmania Devil is one of the smaller "big things" we encountered. Other notables were the Giant Banana in Coffs Harbour and the Giant Prawn.

Wineglass Bay was one of the prettiest spots I visited in Australia. Up there with the Whitsundays. We hiked up over the ridge for some fantastic views and then down onto the beach. It was a little chilling for swimming although some crazy folks gave it a try. I stuck to lounging on the shore.

Crazy animal crossing signs everywhere we went. This was one of my favs.

Beware massive attacking kangaroos that will lift your car

After six glorious days in Tassie it was time to head to the mainland. It wasn't nearly enough time but we packed in a lot. I'll be back there....

Boarding out flight to Melbourne

<< Tasmania | The Route | Melbourne >>

Tassie

2004-01-13T13:09:00.000-08:00

My parents have joined us. Kirsten and I flew out of hot and humid Brissie and landed in refreshing cool Hobart. High tens calls for multiple jumpers, jeans and runners. It feels good to bundle up. Gone are the light airy Queenslanders with the wide shady balconies replaced by sturdy brick homes. Even still central heating is a rarity.

Waiting for some fish and chips in Hobart

After a day wandering in Hobart absorbing the convict and aboriginal history we hightailed it out of town in our rental car. Off to the gorgeous old growth forests. The trees here are massively beautiful and being chopped down for wood chips. Where is the justice?

Could it be remnants of a hobbit hole?

Enjoying the scenery at Russell Falls

A long drive brought us to depressing Queenstown. Years ago it was a prosperous mining town. Now the streets are empty and the houses dilapidated. The hills surrounded have not a shred of vegetation. I felt like we had been transplanted to the moon. The Empire Hotel, where we stayed was a reminder of better days.

A very pink hotel room

<< Stradbrooke Island | The Route | More Tassie >>

Christmas Vacation Australian Style

2004-01-02T15:27:00.000-08:00

Chris gets Jess Dog ready for Christmas

Christmas Day arrived with 35 degree heat. I had feared that I would be homesick for snow and all things associated with a Northern Hermisphere holiday season. So I was determined to make this Christmas unlike anything I could have experienced at home.

Chris and I spent Christmas morning with his mother Colleen opening presents early before driving her to the bus station to visit relatives in NSW. In the afternoon we enjoyed a traditional Aussie BBQ prepared by his friend Luke. Seafood of all types was in abundance. As was the alcohol.

Enjoying the bbq, Tracy to the left enjoys her wine

The next morning we boarded the crack of dawn ferry to Stradbroke Island for five days of camping.

We were tired little campers after only a few hours of sleep so we crashed out once we staked out a suitably secluded campsite. No nieghbours in sight, just what we wanted. When we awoke refreshed, Chris started building the perfect campsite. He would spend the next few days continually tweaking and improving his setup.

Preparing lunch at the newly constructed campsite

Our campsite was hidden behind massive sand dunes. The beach stretchs for miles so it was easy to miss our driveway. Luckily I had brought along my Canada flag to mark our spot.

Oh Canada!

Our days were spent relaxing either at the campsite or at our favourite spot the Keyholes.

After a few days Chris' friends Rob and Don joined us. We consumed much alcohol and set out to explore the islands. We found some massive sand dunes that were just beckoning the Dinosaur to conquer them.

Rob and Chris on the beach

The mighty Dinosaur

<< Bangkok | The Route | Tasmania >>

Return to Bangkok

2003-11-16T20:08:00.000-08:00

Apparently in Bangkok the world has only two classifications

Our time in Cambodia had been brief. We had seen the highlights, but we did not have adequate time to delve deeper. We had to get back to Thailand as we hoped to visit the massive Chatuchak weekend market in Bangkok for a souvenir shopping blitz. It was going to take us two days of travel to return to Bangkok no matter which route we attempted. We opted for the ‘new’ route via Koh Kong. The road had only been built in the past year and was mostly unsealed. There were several rivers along the way and bridges had not yet been added to the route. So the trip required the slow arduous process of boarding and disembarking car ferries several times.

At one particular crossing the driver indicated that we should get some food from a nearby food stall. Eager to leave our minivan for any period of time we settled in for a bowl of soup. When we emerged from the stall, the van was on the other side of the river. It seemed ridiculous to panic since the driver would surely notice that Kirsten and I, the only two Caucasian passengers, were obviously missing. But we still anxiously awaited the ferry to return for us. Soon we were safely aboard the van once again and on our way.

We spent the night in Koh Kong near the Thai border. There really was not much in the town. We explored the market where Kirsten bought a traditional Cambodian scarf but mostly we hung out at the guesthouse reading for the evening

The next morning marked our final border crossing in Asia. Over seven weeks we had completed six land border crossings. Only one of these had been difficult but we still approached the bureaucracy with trepidation. Luckily, there were no problems and we were even bumped up to the start of the queue once the gates at the border opened. Several hours later we were once again on Khao San road.

The next morning we ventured out to the market. After all my visits to Bangkok I still had not ridden the SkyTrain and I was eager to give it a try. Although the train could take us directly to the market the closest station to our guesthosue was several kilometers away. We attempted to hire a tuk-tuk to take us to the station but the drivers couldn’t understand why we didn’t just want a ride all the way to the market. Also they insisted that we should make a couple of 'quick stops' at some suit and jewellery shops in order to get a better price on the tuk-tuk fare. Eventually we found a no nonsense driver who agreed to take us to the train station, with no stops, for a fair price. Once again I was impressed with Kirsten's attitude towards the hassling drivers. She has definitely learned to be assertive and avoid being scammed during her time in Asia.

The Chatuchak market truly was massive and we only saw a mere fraction of it. We managed to find gifts for our family at home and some pretty things for ourselves. Kirsten finally got to experience the joys of a drink in a bag. The vendors prefer to keep the bottles so that they can redeem the deposit. They simply pour the juice into a small bag and send you on your way.

The next day we visited the Vimanmek mansion, the world’s largest teak building that was a royal residence for a few years in the early twentieth century. The decadence is overwhelming with dozens of rooms ornately furnished. I had to wonder how many of the poor homeless children I had seen throughout my time in Asia could have been fed if some of the pieces were auctioned on eBay. Regardless, the mansion was beautiful. The Thai dance performance was quite enjoyable and is definitely worth checking out.

The rest of our time is Asia was spent pampering ourselves. Khao San Road area is filled with salons offering massages, pedicures, manicures and facials. It was indulgent but ridiculously cheap prices we couldn’t refuse. There was no way we could afford such extravagances once we returned to Australia.

<< Phnom Penh | The Route | Brisbane >>

Encountering Cambodia's Horrific History

2003-11-11T21:13:00.000-08:00

We left Siem Reap for another intimate experience with the pothole filled roads of Cambodia. We arrived in Phnom Penh eight exhausting hours later. When we wondered into our guesthouse we ran into a number of people from our slow boat trip in Laos. The backpacker circuit of South East Asia is a very small place evidently.

This is a very difficult entry for me to write. It is nearly impossible to describe how it felt to visit places where such a horrific part of Cambodia's history took place.

During the 1970’s Pol Pot and his Khmer Rouge are thought to have tortured up to 3 million people or about one third of the population at the time. They particularly targeted people with education or artistic individuals of any type. Basically the Khmer Rouge feared anyone considered to be 'free thinkers' that might corrupt the minds of the Cambodian people. Families were split apart and sent to work camps throughout the countryside. The cities were deserted because the Khmer Rouge saw high population densities as a forum where people could freely exchange knowledge and ideas. Technological advancement of any sort was viewed as the “Americanization” of their society and was resultantly prohibited.

We started out that day by visiting Toul Sleng Musuem. The grounds were once a school that had been converted into a prison during the reign of the Khmer Rouge. Rooms used as torture cells were left as they had been at the time complete chains and blood stains on the floors. Several rooms contained picture after picture of the prisoners staring solemnly into the lens. One display showed current photographs of people that had worked at the prison. Their recent colour photos hung next to black and white pictures taken 30 years ago. Comments about their current situation stated that most of the individuals are trying everyday to deal with the heinous acts they had committed. It was heart wrenching that these were simply normal people forced into a situation of fear in which they had to either kill or be killed themselves.

The most infuriating part of the museum was the room explaining what had become of Pol Pot and the other senior members of the Khmer Rouge. These monsters were never held accountable for their crimes and instead were allowed to live out the remainder of the lives unpunished.

Next we drove outside the city to Choeung Ek, a place known as the killing fields. This was where countless individuals were taken to be executed and buried in mass graves. A memorial stands in the middle of the field housing clothing and bones excavated in the graves.

As was the case everywhere we went in Cambodia we were surrounded by children trying to sell us trinkets. I had to wonder if they understood the horrors that had transpired in this field where they were playing and laughing

Overall the day was emotionally draining. That afternoon, mostly in a daze, we wandered around the city. In a pleasant change of pace that evening at our guesthouse some children came to perform traditional Cambodian dances. Money collected during the performance is used to support children whose parents have been killed by landmines.

Even in the beauty and innocence of children dancing I realized that the horrible legacy of the Khmer Rouge will linger on for many generations.

After my visit to Phnom Penh I read a book entitled First They Killed My Father by Loung Ung. I would highly recommend it if you are interested in this period of Cambodia’s history.

<< Angkor | The Route | Bangkok >>

Exploring Ancient Angkor

2003-11-10T15:07:00.000-08:00

The temperature was scorching and shade was scarce during our first day visiting the Angkor ruins. We zipped past Angkor Wat, the most recognizable of the temples, on the back of our motos but our drivers assured us it would be best to return there in the late afternoon. Lighting is a key consideration when visiting the sites. The guidebooks recommend visiting many of the main sites both in the early morning and evening lights in order to truly enjoy their splendour. Personally I think its just easier to enjoy anything during those cooler parts of the day rather than when the forty degree sun is pounding down on your head.

So we started our explorations at Angkor Thom with its great entrance way overseen by giant stone guards. The drivers dropped us at the back entrance but since this wasn't entirely clear we spent much time trying to figure out where we were on the map. I had found a Angkor guidebook secondhand that went into more detail about the reliefs and sculptures than anyone should ever need to know. But what we did manage to read gave us enough of an understanding to appreciate the sites.

The Bayon is the highlight of Angkor Thom with the giant friendly faces beckoning to have the pictures taken again and again.

We meandered around the Bayon and then headed over to the Terrace of the Elephants which was the giant platform with (surprise!) elephants carved all around the base. Then it was time for a rest so we headed to the "restaurant" Or rather covered area with plastic tables. Within moments of sitting down we were mobbed by children selling books, scarves, bracelets, postcards and other trinkets. Some of them were cute for about five seconds, but it became quickly obvious that these kids have learned to selectively ignore the words "No thank you" Asking them to come back after we ate we interpreted as a promise to buy something. I did get leave with a couple of bracelets and we picked up a "TinTin au Cambodge" t-shirt for our sister Erin.

In the afternoon it was off to Ta Prohm, the temple that was made famous by the first Lara Croft movie. All of the temples at Angkor were taken over by the jungle but some of them like Ta Prohm were left with the trees emerging from the crumbled stones and in many places supporting the structures. The roots splay themselves over the ruins like Salvador Dali paintings. The best part about Ta Prohm were all the passages to explore and the fact that the jungle kept the hot sunrays at bay

Next it was onto the Angkor Wat (Round 1) The ruins were exceptionally crowded. We had managed to hit a the Japan-Cambodia friendship weekend. Apparently this meant there were even more Japanese tour groups than usual at Angkor. Even still the reliefs in the late afternoon sun were stunning

After a quick look around the drivers whisked us off to a hilltop temple (Can't remember the name) to watch the sunset. It was generally a disappointment because the temple wasn't anything special, the were hordes of people and the sunset over a huge field and not any ruins. An alarm rang as the sun sank beneath the horizon telling us to get our butts off the hill. Which we did as quickly as possible and hurried back to catch the end of the England-Wales semi final match of the World Cup rugby.

The next morning started early as we hurried to catch the sunrise at Angkor Wat. We started out in front of the temple but we unimpressed so we decided to climb to the top and get away from the crowd.

It was beautiful up there at that quiet hour. The mists were rising from the field behind the temple. The serenity was magical.

The remainder of the day were a blur of more temples. We tried to pay attention to what the guidebook was describing to us but the heat got the better of us. We headed back to the guesthouse in the early afternoon happy that we had our fill of Angkor

<< Angkor | The Route | Phnom Penh >>

Cambodian Lessons Learned

2003-11-09T09:42:00.000-08:00

We had been in Asia over six weeks when we arrived in Siem Reap. We were tired and irritable which was only magnified by our treacherous road journey and the incredible heat. So when our guesthouse owner told us he would arrange moto drivers for us we didn't question and we just accepted his offer. The next morning after some breakfast we headed out to the Angkor ruins.

Money at this point was becoming a mild stress factor in our journey. We were reaching the end of our time in Asia and consequently the bottom of our bank accounts. We had known there would be no atms in Cambodia so we had stocked up on Thai baht before leaving Bangkok. However, when the Lonely Planet told us that American dollars were accepted in Cambodia it likely should have read "only American dollars". Any place we went prices for foreigners were listed in USD and when we attempted to pay in baht we were losing heaps on terrible exchange rates.

First lesson learned when travelling in Cambodia bring your money in American dollars.

Needless to say shelling out $20 USD per day for a pass to the ruins was a painful experience made even more excruciating by the poor exchange rate the ticket attendant quoted. But the worst was yet to come when we returned to find our moto drivers. Everything we had read and been told led us to expect a price of between $6 - $10 USD per day to hire a driver. The price varied depending on the proximity of the ruins and we had the impression the rates around the ruins were standardized. So we were shocked when the drivers told us we would have to pay double the expected price. When we attempted to barter them down they flat out refused to negotiate.

Admittedly I did not handle myself in as dignified a manner as I would have liked. I was irritated that the drivers had deliberately waited until we were inside the gates and left with no other option. But mostly I was upset at myself for not having negotiated the price back at the guesthouse.

The next lesson learned in Cambodia, as with the rest of life, never assume anything.

I was impressed with how well Kirsten maintained her composure. She managed to calm me down and barter with the drivers for a slightly better rate. It wasn't the price that we had been expecting but it was within the realm of affordability.

Of course in retrospect the extra dollars that we spent seem trivial since we have returned to a country where spending a few dollars on a coffee and doughnut are daily occurrences. It is certainly easy for one’s perception to become skewed when traveling in a country where a meal with beer costs a hefty $2 USD.

Even with all the hassles touring the ruins was an absolutely amazing experience. More to follow....

<< Bangkok to Siem Reap | The Route | Angkor >>

Enduring the road from hell

2003-11-08T06:52:00.000-08:00

Our bus arrived in Bangkok four hours late since we seemed to be continually stopping to remedy some sort of mechanical malfunction. We had decided to head back to Bangkok and then onto Cambodia. The border between Laos and Cambodia is often closed to tourists. So although being stuck at a border crossing would have been a cool adventure our time was rather limited and we chose the more predictable route. We spent the day once again on Khao San Road hanging out and phoning the parents on a proper internet phone.

Checking in with the parentals

Our bus to Cambodia left early in the morning and we were eagerly anticipating our visit to the Angkor ruins. But first we had to endure the a nightmare journey from the Thai border to Siem Reap.

Waiting at the border crossing

This particular stretch of road has been the subject of many an amusing story from fellow backpackers. A number of us on the bus were betting how long the 150 kilometre journey would take. My estimate of 5.5 hours was well below the actual 7 hours we endured. There was no right or left side driving on this road, the driver just swerved around trying to avoid as many potholes as possible. At one point we were forced to stop before crossing a single lane bridge because a minivan had come stuck in a hole. With some group effort, we managed to push the minivan out and proceeded on our way.

The Cambodians joke about the state of the roads in the country but its current condition is quite appalling. The Khmer Rouge destroyed many roads because they didn't want people to travel and share ideas. Five years ago Japan gave Cambodia $80 million for repairs to their roads but so far little improvement has been seen.

<< Vientiane | The Route | Angkor >>

Vientiane - Our final days in Laos

2003-11-06T08:07:00.000-08:00

After the abundance of activities in Vang Vieng, Vientiane required some readjustment. We wondered "where were all the cafes serving banana shakes and screening Friends reruns on DVD." It was time to return to more cultural pursuits. We also had to start watching for cars something we hadn't really had to do since arriving in Laos

Vientiane is filled with cheap places to eat. The stuffed baguettes with Laughing Cow cheese were a definite favourite. A big thank you to the French for introducing bread and pastries to Laos. I forgot to mention Healthy Fresh in Luang Phabeng, a cafe opened by Canadians where we enjoyed our first bagels since leaving home six months ago. I greatly enjoyed Lao coffee, its dark and strong. I prefer it served with milk and ice.

I also discovered the green mango salad while having drinks along the river. Exceptionally spicy but also very tasty. I've always enjoyed eating at street vendors as a way to sample the local cuisine. I exercise good judgment but I've never let paranoid fears of bacteria deter me. In Laos eating at street vendors means being surrounding by children begging for food. I watched the locals and it is customary to leave some food behind for the children. While only a small thing it is of some help since often they are not the beneficiary of any money they may receive.

We visited the morning market in hopes of finding some of the beautiful blankets and pillow covers we had seen at the Luang Phabeng night markets. Sadly the selection was a mere fraction of the lovely handicrafts we had seen previously. For those planning a visit to Laos, Luang Phabeng is definitely the place to buy gifts for home as we have not seen anything nearly as nice elsewhere in Laos. Then it was onto the Laos Revolutionary Museum. I found the collection quite amusing with its pictures illustrating the Laos people rising up against the 'evil' French and American imperialists. Not exactly an unbiased account of history but nevertheless informative.

That night we walked for ages to the That Luang festival. Everything I read about the festival used the words 'religious' and 'solemn' so I was shocked at the scene that greeted us. It was a giant carnival. Think the CNE or the Ekka with a million times the volume. Every booth was cranking their sound system to drown out their neighbours as they promoted their cleaning products, clothes, toiletries and other random wares. There was even a Proctor and Gamble tent. I wished Nadine could have been with us to see it. In the middle of the fairground was the That Luang stupa where people made offerings to Buddha. It was a contrasting site in the midst of all the commercialism.

Side Note: My camera stopped functioning for a brief period in Vientiane due to a unfortunate episode with a bottle of water in my backpack. Hence the minimal pictures in this entry

The next day we took the local bus to Xieng Kuane, the Buddha Park, about 25 km outside of Vientiane. The ladies at our guesthouse were dismayed that we wanted to tackle the local bus and tried to persuade us to hire a taxi. But it was our last day in Laos and we were low on kip. Fortunately, the local bus was surprisingly easy to figure out and relatively comfortable considering the return trip cost the equivalent of about 30 cents. The park itself is filled with dozens of concrete Buddhism images. After wandering for awhile we found a peaceful shady spot and caught up on some journalling.

After returning to the city we killed some time before our night bus to Bangkok. Our last minute sightseeing included Ha Pha Kaew, the king's personal temple that was sacked by the Siamese in the 19th century. Most of the stolen goods have been returned except for the sacred Emerald Buddha. That shockingly small yet greatly revered statue still resides in Bangkok.

After the sightseeing we dashed around spending the last of our kip on bus snacks. I wished we could have spent more time in Laos since we had only seen a small sample of this wonderful country. But our time in Asia was quickly coming to an end.

Our route through Laos

<< Vang Vieng | The Route | Bangkok to Siem Reap >>

The backpacker retreat known as Vang Vieng

2003-11-03T07:55:00.000-08:00

Vang Vieng seems to be custom built for the entertainment of backpackers. As I understand this was the opium den capitol of Laos back in the day. Now the opium dens have been shut, but for anyone interested it is quite easy to find other recreational drugs. These are most often found in the form of Happy Pizzas and Banana Shakes. I heard one person describe it as a town for potheads built by potheads. But for those, like myself, not interested in such pursuits there is a multitude of other amusing and cheap activities around Vang Vieng

When we arrived in Vang Vieng we immediately ran into Ben, Paul and Dave lounging in a restaurant across from our guesthouse. The town was teeming with others from our slow boat voyage. Since Kirsten and I had not traveled directly to Vang Vieng from Luang Phabeng we were officially dubbed the "Phonsaven Girls".

The day after arriving in Vang Vieng we ganged up with some of the others from the slow boat and drifted down the river on tubes. I didn't take my camera out that day but I found this picture of other travelers doing the exact same thing. Along the banks of the river are make shift bars. Sometimes it is only a man and a cooler of Beer Lao but some of the places included cliff jumping and snacks. The whole experience could be best described as a river pub crawl on a tube.

On Sunday it was kayaking. We drove further up the river this time. After a short paddle we stopped to visit some caves. At the first, we entered through a deep stream at the mouth of the cave. We swam the first 10 metres through the cave before the water became shallow enough to stand. Our only light came from the small white candles that we were each given. Of course being that we were swimming and trying to hold a candle they went out frequently. We proceeded through the cave exploring the many passages sometimes wading, sometimes swimming and sometimes nearly crawling to get through the smaller spaces. Overall I was excessively proud of myself since I am generally quite adverse to caves of any sort.

After caving we enjoyed a delicious lunch of fried rice and BBQed skewers. We then we paddled leisurely down the river. Kirsten and I often found ourselves at the front of the pack so there were many opportunities for resting. Until some of the Israeli guys in our group would catch up and proceed to perfect their paddle splashing technique on us. Even with all the resting by the end of the day I was beat and shocked at how dramatically my fitness level has dropped since arriving in Asia.

Our third day in Vang Vieng was spent enjoying the comforts that the town provides to backpackers. Cheap laundry, banana shakes, email and DVDs. We met some great people through our kayaking trip and hung out with them at one of the many sunset bars on the banks of the river. It was nice to enjoy some easy going conversation that didn't hinge upon the wonders of the Laos drug scene.

<< Phonsavan | The Route | Vientiane >>

The Plain of Jars

2003-10-30T07:52:00.000-08:00

Kirsten and I journeyed by local bus from Laung Phabeng through the mountains to Phonsaven. Although the bus was basic it was one of the most enjoyable Asian bus rides so far. Extremely comfortable except for my dire need for a toilet a few hours into the trip. When at last I could no longer stand the pressure in my bladder I tried to convey to the bus driver's assistant my need for a pit stop. Moments later the driver pulled over, waved around and said "okay, toilet!" I ventured just far enough from the road to be hidden from view. Echos of warnings read in guide books about unexploded bombs found in the countryside were running through my head. The other notable aspect of our bus trip was the army escort on the bus carrying a gun. He was there to deter bandits looking to hijack the bus. But it wasn't just the army personnel that were armed but civilians also carryied massive guns. Strangely the presence of all these firearms did not make me nervous in the least.

We weren't long in Phonsaven before realizing were experiencing a different side of Laos. It was not exactly off the "backpacker trail" but there were definitely fewer tourists than Luang Phabeng. The real difference was the grim reminders of the "secret war". The below picture was the "sculpture" in the garden of our guesthouse.

The owner of our guesthouse, Kong Keo, is very anti-government and told us many stories of how corruption has plagued his country. He believes Laos is a classic example of communism not functioning effectively. He warned ominiously that as affluence for a select few increases the Hmong and other disadvantaged mountain people are likely to revolt

Everyone who comes to Phonsaven visits the Plain of Jars, which are massive stone containers that remain a perplexing mystery. The government has not allowed archaeologists to study the sites since the 1930's so little is known about them. Bones found in the jars have been dated at more than five hundred years old. But it is possible the jars are much older than that. The most widely held belief is that the jars were funeral urns where bodies were left to decompose. Later the bones would be removed for a separate burial elsewhere.

In between visiting the jar sites we stopped at some local villages. The basic houses were made using parts of bomb casings.

Back at the guesthouse, Kong prepared a number of traditional Laos dishes. Everything was eaten family style as we sat on cushions at short wicker tables. Each person was given their own lidded wicker basket filled with sticky rice. Portions of rice are rolled into golf ball size mounds and then dipped into the sauce of the dishes. We also "enjoyed" a couple rounds a lao-lao, a strong rice alcohol that is similar to whiskey. Although I did not take to the strong drink it is quite rude to refuse a drink offered to you in Laos.

Kong is one of the best and most intriguing guesthouse owners I have encountered on this trip. He is genuinely welcoming and one doesn't get the feeling he is only putting in the effort to entice you to spend more money (as is so often the case while traveling.) He opened the guesthouse with money he received by selling a rare butterfly to a Japanese bug collector for $10,000 USD.

<< Luang Phabeng | The Route | Vang Vieng >>

Sleepy and Beautiful Luang Phabeng

2003-10-28T07:34:00.000-08:00

We arrived in Luang Phabeng late in the afternoon on our second day in Laos. We were greeted by the standard hordes of guesthouse toutes at the dock but headed out to find our own place. It was relatively easy to stumble upon decent accomodation. For the equivalent of $2.50 USD we stayed in a spacious twin room with a shared bathroom fully equipped with a hot shower. Three of the guys we met on the boat, Paul, Ben and David, were also staying at our guesthouse. We all took our turn enjoying the steamy bathroom while the rest of us relaxed on the veranda drinking Beer Lao. We shared the usual crazy travel stories and discussed musical tastes.

Dinner was on the banks of the Mekong river under plastic patio lanterns. The whole day was filled with "I can't believe where I am" moments. I was feeling very grateful to have the opportunity to experience all of these adventures.

I spent my first full day in Luang Phabeng just wandering the streets. Kirsten was feeling unwell, possibly due to the malaria meds so I was alone and enjoying the solitude. Loung Phabeng is less of a city than a sleepy little town on the banks of two rivers. The buildings are French colonial and made me feel like I had landed in a European town stuck in a time warp.

As I walked past one of the many wats a young monk called out "saybadee". His name was Bounthong and I talked to him about his role as a monk, his plans to study computers and his dreams of one day visiting Canada

The next morning I was awaken at 4:00am by roosters and didn't really get back to sleep. The group of us were hoping to rent scooters to visit the nearby countryside. But this particular week the police had decided it was illegal to rent scooters to foreigners. Instead we hired a tuk-tuk driver to take us to Koung Xi falls with its eleven spectacular tiers. We hiked a trail to about halfway up the falls and then actually climbed the falls themselves to get to a deep swimming pool. We took turns swinging on a vine into the pool and jumping off the rocks.

The trip to the falls was filled with picturesque hills, rice fields and villages. All the children would wave hello as we passed. The smiles and warmth in this country have been overwhelming.

<< The Slow Boat | The Route | Phonsavan >>

Goodbye to Thailand and onto Laos

2003-10-26T07:17:00.000-08:00

Kirsten and I spent our final day in Bangkok hanging around Khao San Road preparing for our trip into Laos. I bought a new digital camera to replace the one I lost on the train. Mostly though we just wasted time as people do on Khao San Road, watched some movies, wrote some postcards and wandered the streets browsing the stalls.

Traveling in Asia has taught me that departure times are merely a suggestion. So we intended to arrive at our meeting spot 30 minutes earlier than scheduled. But when we got there we were informed the time of the bus departure had changed and we were late. Kirsten and I were herded down the back alleys to our minivan with Nadine following along behind us.

I really wish I could have had more time to say goodbye to Nadine. But instead it was rushed and chaotic. She was the only person I have seen from home in six months and I was sad to end our journey together. We've always traveled so well together. She would definitely be my Amazing Race partner

The minivan drive to the bus station was the typically terrifying, but after a few weeks in Asia I have become used to the swerving and running of red lights. Once at the bus station we still ended up waiting over an hour for our bus to depart.

The bus ride was brutal as there was very little room although they did hand out mini bottles of water and snacks possibly as a form of compensation. Thankfully there were blankets because the bus driver was maximizing the air condition setting. As people left the bus Kirsten and I would snag their blankets and shroud ourselves to keep warm. The Arnold Schwarzenegger dubed into Thai held little interest so I mostly without much success to sleep.

Our route through Thailand

When we arrived in Chang Kong we bought a ticket that included transport in the back of a pickup truck to the pier, a boat ride across the Mekong river to Huay Xai in Laos and then a two day slow boat ride to Loung Phabeng. Much to our relief the border crossing was painless. Admittedly this had much to do with its contrast to our Malaysia/Thailand border crossing.

Kirsten and I had headed to Laos with the perception that we would be venturing into an area not as frequently traveled by backpackers. But instead we found a couple dozen other backpackers all completing the same journey down the river that day.

The slow boat was undeniably basic with its two rows of narrow wooden benches along both sides of the boat with an aisle in between. If you are lucky there might be a thin cushion to sit on. The pace was leisurely and the scenery beautiful.

We stayed overnight in Pakbeng, a tiny village halfway to Lounge Phabeng. The accommodation was simple. Our room cost $2 USD and included two small beds with mozzie nets and a fan. The bathroom out back was my first experience with Asian style bathing. No running water, instead I stood next to a large basin of water and used a bucket to pour cold water over myself.

The second day on the boat was extra cramped. More passengers this time and along the way we stopped to load up the boat with supplies being shipped to Luang Phabeng including strange and smelly varieties of fish. We spent most of the day trying to find a comfortable space to squeeze into and just get into that travel zombie state...not quite asleep and not quite awake

<< Ayutthaya | The Trip Route | Luang Phabeng >>

Ayutthaya - Exploring the Capitol of Ancient Siam

2003-10-24T12:25:00.000-07:00

Our morning started slowly as we wanted to spend some extra time with Monkey. He was heading north on a flight to Chang Mai before he returned to New Zealand. At last though we were on the third class train to Ayutthaya.

We passed small villages, Buddhist wats and flooded rice fields. All very picturesque. So much so that I took out my camera to get a few shots but sadly when I departed the train I left the camera sitting in my seat. By the time I realized my mistake the train was long gone but I still rushed back to the station in order to try to salvage my camera. It wasn't simply the loss of the camera that upset me but rather the more than three weeks worth of pictures still on the memory card. The man at the tourist information was super helpful as was the station conductor but as I suspected my camera was not to be recovered.

Determined not to let my stupid mistake ruin my time in Ayutthaya we headed out to explore the "archeological sites." There were many signs requesting that we not call the site ruins. Admittedly the remnants of ancient Siam were different than any ruins I had ever visited. The structures are more than 700 years old but they still feel very much alive. Buddhism is an ancient but still actively practiced religion. Thai people still visit the sites to pray and honour Buddha. As a part of this, every few months the Buddha statues are dressed in robes appropriate to the season. Since we were visiting in the rainy season the robes were large to provide maximum warmth.

Nadine amongst the warmly clothed Buddhas

Around the sites were signs asking people not to stand behind the headless statues and in order to have their picture taken. We found these endlessly amusing since it triggered the question how many tourists before us had forgotten for a moment they were not at Disney Land.

That day in Ayutthaya went from one of my worst travelling moments (losing my camera) to one that I will always remember. It was getting close to sunset when we decided to get some dinner. The sun was a giant red orb set behind the stupas. The entire sky was glowing pink and orange. Then as we walked along the road, out of seemingly nowhere, appeared a parade of elephants. In that moment I remembered that it is the small random occurrences that make travelling so worthwhile.

Our accommodation in Ayutthaya was a lovely teak house. All of the rooms were decorated with antiques collected by the owner. On the ground floor, the restaurant was set on the bank of the river and on the second floor a balcony made for a nice spot to read and enjoy views of the river.

The next morning we visited several more sites and I had then decided that I had seen enough ancient statues for the moment and we headed back to Bangkok in the mid-afternoon. Before departing I gave the staff at the train station's tourist information some Canada pins to thank them for their kindness the day before.

The bizarre head in the tree that is Ayutthaya's most famous photo op

<< Ayutthaya | The Route | Slow Boat >>

And the Award for Nastiest Backpacker Goes To....

2003-10-22T12:12:00.000-07:00

Warning: Random Ramblings....feel free to skip ahead if you wish to continue reading about my time in Thailand

The travelers I have met during my times abroad have been an eclectic mix of people. But generally the trend I have encountered is that the more difficult the travel the more open-minded and easy-going the travelers tend to be. For example, in Peru, where I found the combination of altitude and treacherous roads particularly taxing, I met many agreeable individuals. They impressed me with their interest in local culture and their efforts to communicate with the locals in Spanish. At this point, I will mention that many of these people were American and they completely destroyed any stereo typical conceptions I may have had about Canada’s domineering southern neighbour.

Thailand, while not a first world country in terms of development, has an extensive infrastructure for travelers. Nearly everywhere I went I was met with Thai people eager to help me find accommodation, obtain tickets for transportation or provide some type of service to make my travels more enjoyable. As a result of its interesting culture, ease of travel and affordability Thailand attracts travelers of many sorts and unfortunately not all of them the humble laid back sort.

The nastiest backpacker I have ever encountered was staying at our guesthouse in Ayutthaya. From the second I overheard her loudly recounting stories of her five month stint in Thailand I was unimpressed. By bragging about her extended length of stay she meant to infer that she had developed a profound and deep connection with the people of this country. I certainly agree that the longer a person spends in a particular area the more enriching the experience. However, I do not think anyone would debate the fact that a person’s attitude also greatly shapes their experience. Within a few seconds of hearing this woman speak I could tell that humility was not a characteristic often displayed. I found it hard to believe that her patronizing and dismissive behavior towards the guesthouse staff indicated that she could have a profound connection with any person in any country.

Up to this point however, her attitude was not too much different than dozens of other backpackers I had encountered. Travellers upholding a belief that because their country has one of the highest GDP's in the world they are bestowed with a privilege to treat others with rudeness and disrespect. Until the next morning when I awoke to her screams in the courtyard. In Southeast Asia there are no laundromats. Instead one "sends their laundry out". While it doesn’t always come back Tide Fresh the results are generally acceptable. Except in the case of our American friend. She had included a new yellow shirt with her laundry and the dye ended up running all over the rest of her clothes.

This psychotic woman (To simplify I am just going to call her Psycho Lady) was screaming at the guesthouse staff demanding that the laundry lady pay her the money it would take to buy replace all the ruined articles. She claimed that her clothes were valued at a few hundred dollars. In a country where the average daily wage is about $8 USD this of course was ridiculous. So Psycho Lady began threatening to call the police.

The staff then offered her a free breakfast which actually happened to my breakfast that I was eagerly awaiting. Psycho Lady proceeded to throw the plate of food on the ground in a manner befitting a two year old.

Admittedly I sympathized with the situation. When you live out of a backpack, wearing the same clothing for weeks at a time, one can grow quite attached to their belongings. However, I was absolutely disgusted with the method Psycho Lady decided to confront the situation.

When you decide to travel you also choose to leave the comfort and control of home life behind. This naturally includes the Maytag washer and dryer. I fully believe if an individual can afford to live in Thailand for more than five months without working they most certainly can afford the money it would cost to replace a few hundred dollars worth of clothes. Especially in a country that is renowned for its name brand knockoffs.

In retrospect I wish I had set this lady straight...

"Suck it up, buy some new clothes and continue on with your travels. This lady you insist on degrading will likely never see places a few hours away let alone countries on the other side of the globe. So be thankful for your experiences and respect the people of a country that allow you to reside for five months without having to work a single day. Accept that crap happens when you travel and if you can't deal with it then go back to your safe suburbian life and stop complaining"

...but instead I sat on the verandah overlooking the river listening to my grumbling stomach and wishing my breakfast was not scattered all over the floor

<< Bangkok | The Route | Ayutthaya >>

One night in Bangkok (well two actually!)

2003-10-21T17:33:00.000-07:00

I have been too Bangkok more times than I wish to recall. Somehow it is impossible for me to travel in Southeast Asia without multiple pitstops in Bangkok. But I do have to admit that I love the guilty pleasures that Khao San Road has to offer.

Pancakes with bananas and chocolate are one of Khao San's indulgences

For those who haven't been to Bangkok, Khao San Road is a strange place to describe. In the middle of this hot, bustling, sweaty (did I mention hot) Asian city is this spot where backpackers from all around the world congregate. The main street is a series of ultra cheap and undeniably basic guesthouses, travel agents, internet cafes and restaurants airing the latest in pirated Hollywood blockbusters. Then outside the shops are stalls selling souvenirs and "backpacker clothing" They are the type of articles that all backpackers succumb to purchasing but would never dream of wearing at home. At night the street is closed to vehicles and makeshift bars are setup along the curbside. You can spend the evening sitting on plastic stools consuming a variety of mix drinks and watching your fellow backpackers decorate their bodies with henna tattoos.

Kirsten gets "tattooed"

Within a day on Khao San Road we were able to arrange our visas for Cambodia & Laos, buy bus tickets and even have some new minidiscs created from illegally copied cds. I was ever so happy that this was all done within a one block radius of our guesthouse because after drinking at the above mentioned curbside bars I was feeling pretty average.

In the afternoon I was feeling better so Nadine, Monkey, Kirsten and I hired a tuk-tuk to visit Wat Po. The four of us crammed into the tiny tuk-tuk swerving the streets of Bangkok was quite amusing. Wat Po is my favourite spot in Bangkok as it is the home to the giant reclining Buddha. The Buddha is massive at 46 metres long. I love wandering the grounds of the Wat as it feels so tranquil and secluded with the craziness of the city.

Nadine, Kirsten and Monkey on the Wat Po grounds

While we wandered the grounds this lady pulled us into an area and offered us incense to burn in front of the Buddha. She then insisted that we take pictures of her. The strangeness continued when she proceeded to grab Nadine's Lonely Planet and write her mother's address inside front cover. Nadine was particularily horrified since she absolutely never writes in books of any type. She considers it some sort of sacriledge. When we attempted to escape from this bizarre situation the lady claimed we owed her money for the experience. By this point we were all expecting that the entire escapade was a scam but we gave her a few baht so that we could leave relatively unscathed.

The ubiquitous Bangkok billboards near Wat Po

<< Koh Tao | The Route | Ayutthaya >>

Well it isn't called the wet season for nothing

2003-10-19T11:50:00.000-07:00

We left Koh Sok National Park and headed to Surat Thani on the east coast. From here we caught the overnight ferry to Koh Tao. Two rows of people sleeping side by side on thin mattresses. And that was considered a first class ticket.

We met the assistant manager of Baan Khun Daeng Resort on the boat, decided he was a trustworthy guy and took him up on the suggestion to stay at his bungalows. I loved our little bungalow set up high on the hill with glimpses of the ocean all for only 150 baht/night (about $6) shared between two people.

On our first day on Koh Tao the rain had stopped for awhile so we took advantage and jumped in a long tail boat to Nangyuan Island, which is actually three islands separated by thin sand bars. I spent most of the day snorkelling and ended up with quite a funny "mask" burn. Though how my face got burnt while I was looking down into the water still remains a mystery.

We awoke the next two mornings to heavy rains, but luckily our dive trips went out anyway. Koh Tao is renowned for its diving and with 20 dive shops on a relatively small island there is unbelievable competition in prices. We bought a package of 4 dives including all our equipment for $100 CDN. Sadly though I didn't really see anything of note, except my first moray eel. I also found the staff to be lacking compared to the wonderful service we received in Koh Phi Phi.

When we weren't diving there really wasn't much to do on account of all the rains. We spent our time in the pubs watching World Cup rugby and wandering around the shops. Unfortunately Nadine was not a diver and after a couple of days had exhausted any form of amusement on the island. She decided to head up to Bangkok a day earlier than us. We would have liked to go with her, but by the time we made a decision all spots on the boat off the island were booked.

<< Koh Sok National Park | The Route | Bangkok >>

Treehouses and Creepy Leeches

2003-10-16T07:15:00.000-07:00

The morning after meeting up with Nadine we held a "breakfast meeting" to determine a plan for the next few days. Travelling with three other people is so much more difficult politically and logistically than travelling with just one other person. We had hoped to get a later bus out of Krabi since the others wanted to explore the area around Karbi. But after much running around including a songthaew ride to the local bus station it became apparent the most sensible route was the 11:30 minibus to Koh Sok National Park.

We ended up staying at the Smiley Bungalows not entirely by choice...it was just where the minibus dropped us but it worked out extremely well. We stayed in cute and very cheap treehouses run by the friendliest people.

The guesthouse owners took us on a brief tour of the area just before dusk. We visited some waterfalls but the real highlight was the cave temple. At dusk every evening the monkeys that live nearby all come out to be fed. It was fun watching them play and even fight. The best were the adorable baby monkeys climbing all around.

The next day we were blessed with very little rain and we set out to hike through the national park. The first 3 km were easy going and we saw heaps of butterflies and other interesting insects. After that the trail became more challenging and unfortunately all of the signs had fallen to the ground and shattered. Resultantly, with only our hand drawn map it was difficult to tell how far we had come.

Then we wandered into leech territory, an experience I hope never to repeat. These tiny things would crawl up over our shoes and attach themselves to your ankles all without us realizing a thing. In a way it was almost better not knowing they were there because once we became aware of them we became obsessed. We were constantly checking our legs and feeling like they were crawling all over us. We decided to head back and went for a refreshing swim at a little stream near the beginning of the trail.

Other than hiking in the jungle there was not much else to do in the area and the constant rain sucked away most of our motivation to explore. We spent much of our time hanging out in the restaurant at our guesthouse. The children of the owners were unbelievably cute. I have been so impressed by how patient Thai people are with their children and perhaps as a result how well adjusted and behaved the children are.

<< Koh Phi Phi | The Route | Koh Tao >>

Seahorses and Rolling Stone Covers

2003-10-14T09:00:00.000-07:00

We headed out for three dives near Koh Phi Phi. One of them was my very first wreck dive but the visibility was about a metre so we didn't see much of anything. On the third dive I did see my very first seahorse. Or at least I think I did. Our divemaster was pointing into a little crevice and making the sign for seahorse. I could have sworn I saw something moving about in there but looking back I am not so sure.

We spent the next couple of days lounging on the beach and restoring our tans that have much faded since our last beach days back on Fraser Island in Australia. We also watched a couple of World Cup Rugby Games including the Canada vs. New Zealand game. Monkey was especially please when his All Blacks utterly humiliated the Canadians.

On our last evening we headed to the Rolling Stoned bar where we enjoyed the performance of a very entertaining Thai coverband. Their interpretation of the lyrics was often a little suspect, but the guitarist was especially brilliant.

On Monday just before we were to leave for the ferry the rains started pelting down. The pathways on the island were flooded up above our ankles in mere minutes. Once again I was thankfully for my backs raincover and the three dollar poncho I had purchased in the Cameron Highlands.

Kirsten drugged herself up on gravol for the trip back to the mainland and her motion sick stomach was grateful. The trip was not enjoyable but it was quickly forgotten when we arrived in Krabi and I met up with Nadine, my first friendly face from home in six months.

<< Koh Phi Phi | The Route | Koh Sok National Park >>

Four years of change on Koh Phi Phi

2003-10-10T10:52:00.000-07:00

I first visited Koh Phi Phi in 2000 fresh from university and enjoying my first backpacking trip. I absolutely loved my time there and everyday kept telling myself "just one more day...and then I'll move on"

When Kirsten told me her friend Jason (aka Monkey) from New Zealand would be heading to Koh Phi Phi I jumped at the chance to revisit this little piece of paradise.

The island certainly has not grown but the development on the island has increased rapidly making space a valuable commodity. My first stay had been in a lovely beach bungalow on Loh Dalum Bay. The resorts along the beach there have now been upgraded and were well outside of our budgets. Where small restaurants dotted the beach fancy upscale eateries now stand. There was even a "wet bar", a massive waterfall pool where you could sit and sip cocktails while watching the sunset. A nice concept but with one drink being twice my nightly accomodation I decided to pass.

The one thing that hasn't changed is the amazing geography of the island. Imposing limestone krast cliffs covered with vegetation rise out of turqoise waters. Other things that I am thankful that have not changed.

• No paved roads and no cars
• Delicious Mossman curries
• Amazing fiery red sunsets
• Bucket drinks made for sharing (a bucket, alcohol & mixer of choice, ice and multiple straws)

<< Koh Phi Phi | The Route | Koh Phi Phi >>

Island Relaxation on Koh Phi Phi

2003-10-09T22:00:00.000-07:00

Our first morning in Koh Phi Phi was spent lounging and recovering from our travels. We headed to the beach and soon hooked up with Monkey. He decided to charter a boat for a trip to Phi Phi Ley, the neighbouring island. The weather wasn't spectacular so it was a good day to meander around on a boat with the occasional swim and snorkel.

One particular bay that we docked at was aptly called Monkey Bay with dozens of the little guys running around the beach. Larger tour boats would stop there and throw bananas onto the beach. At first the monkeys were actively running around fighting over the food. However, in a short time they were all lazily lounging in the sand, bellies distended from their greedy feed.

The beach at Maya Bay was the setting for the idyllic beach in that terrible Leonardo di Caprio movie The Beach (Though Alex Garland's book is a recommended read) The beach itself is unbelievably amazing though sadly suffering drastic erosion from damage inflicted during the movie's filming. But floating on your back staring up at the majestic cliffs it is easy to believe you have found paradise.

That evening we took a long tail boat over to Monkey's resort. His trip to Thailand had included a few nights at the Holiday Inn Resort . Definitely not your typical Holiday Inn. At 10x the price of our basic bungalow it was on a different scale altogether than we had become accustomed to. We enjoyed a relaxing evening of excellent food and beer on the beach.

<< Koh Phi Phi | The Route | Koh Phi Phi >>

Did we actually make it to Thailand?

2003-10-08T19:00:00.000-07:00

For those in search of brevity this is not the post for you. So feel free to skip ahead. I'll start with the abridged version. We left the Camerson Highlands and nearly 24 gruelling in-transit hours later we were on the beautiful island of Koh Phi Phi

The longer version goes a little something like this. Before catching our 4:30 bus we decided to grab some delicious chicken satay skewers at the road side stand near our guesthouse. Then in the pouring rain we proceeded to board the local bus which was already full seating wise. We were forced to sit on our packs on the floor. The bus was of similar standard to our journey up into the highlands. Since it felt like the bottom of the bus could drop out at any moment it proved an interesting experience

Two hours later we were in Tapah with about a half an hour before our bus connection. So I wandered off in search of snacks while Kirsten waited with our packs. I was gone less than 10 minutes but when I returned I was horrified to learn that the bus had arrived early and left without us. The shop owner/bus ticket attendant assured us another bus was on its way and would be there at 11:00 PM. He proceeded to close up shop and left us waiting on a dark and utterly deserted street. The 11:00 bus also failed to arrive and at this point we were seriously panicking over what to do. Everything else in the town was long shut for the evening. The idea of spending a night on the dodgy streets of nowhere town Malaysia was simply not appealing.

My feeling of relief when the shop owner unexpectedly returned is indescribable. A few phone calls later he determined the bus company had forgotten about us, but not to worry another bus was on its way (Haven't I heard this before) Finally, at nearly 1:00am we boarded a bus to Ipoh which continued on to the Thai/Malay border. The air condition on the bus was set to the maximum level and it turned the bus into an absolute ice box. For five hours we shivered and attempted to sleep.

At 6:00 am we had arrived at Malaysia immigration where huge queues awaited us. We chose the slowest queue and grew concerned as we watched everyone else for our bus get through before us. We, of course, were the only Westerners on the entire bus and even in all the queues.

When we finally got through the line we fruitlessly searched through the sea of parked buses for ours. Eventually we did find another man from our bus who with some rudimentary english and gesturing communicated that the bus was on the other side of the Thai border. We would have to travel through the one kilometre "no mans land" on our own. Being that we were still relatively inexperienced at the whole land border crossing thing we believed him. So we hopped in a taxi with the guy, another female and rushed over to Thai immigration. After some serious confusion we soon realized the bus wasn't on this side....it was still waiting for us on the malaysian side. Eventually things were straightened out and the bus was on its way to Haddyai, but not before the bus driver gave us a proper tongue lashing with his minimal english (which somehow seemed to contain more swear words than anything else) It was impossible to explain that we were not the ones to blame so we accepted his wrath with minimal tears.

It should be noted that the gentleman who had led us astray did bring us packages of Doublemint gum as peace offerings

Our route through Malaysia

The remainder of the journey which included a five hour very cramped ride in a minivan and a ninety minute ferry ride passed with relatively few incidents. At this point I was so exhausted that I just endured the trip in a foggy daze.

We didn't have much time and energy to explore the island that first night. The only thing we were interested in was a cold beer and a spicy Thai curry

<< Malaysia | The Route | Koh Phi Phi >>

Whirlwind blitz through Malaysia

2003-10-07T14:08:00.000-07:00

From Singapore we crossed the border and headed to Melaka, a city which has been at different times colonized by the Portugese, Dutch and British. So heaps of different influences on the architecture of the city. We wandered around adjusting to really being in an Asian city. The sites and smells were overwhelming after pristinely clean Singapore. We dressed modestly but still were often stared at by the men. One group even insisted on taking a picture with us. The women in Malaysia were Western style clothing but everything is covered including their heads.

Next it was onto Tepeh. The LP insinuated the ride to be about three hours. Six hours later we were still driving along with no idea where we were. Noone on the bus spoke English so we just held onto hope that we were getting close. Finally arrived and jumped on a rickety bus up into the hills to get to Tanah Rata. We arrived in the pouring rain but the drop in temperature was amazing. We slept that night under thick heavy blankets. Hiked around the tea plantations in the rain for a couple of days, watched pirated movies which made J. Lo's butt look enormous and gorged ourselves on stellar Indian food and mango laisses.

It is of course a vast understatement to say three nights in Malaysia was insufficient to truly appreciate the country. But we had people to meet in Thailand.

<< Singapore | The Route | Into Thailand >>

Homesickness in Singapore

2003-10-03T23:56:00.000-07:00

I flew to Singapore a couple of days before Kirsten. In terms of Asian cities it was on the far side of intimidating. But I was hot and I was homesick. Although I never quite figured out which home I was sick for....Canada or my new home in Australia.

I wandered from one airconditioned facility to the next. I found the heat overbearing. I tried to buy a memory card at the Electronics mall and the rude sales men made me cry. I fled back to my airconditioned hostel where I met Minaki. Making new friends does wonders to ease homesickness. He accompanied me the next day to the mall and made sure I didn't get ripped off.

When Kirsten arrived we walked and walked and walked around. There are all these great neighbourhoods. Little India was the best. It was the first day of Diwali and all the Hindu temples were packed with people offering beads & incense and even bathing in this milk like substance. So cool though still not convinced I want to go to India proper.

We went to the Night Safari at the zoo. Unbelievable animal sightings including some elusive tigers and leopards. The city bus had televisions. They were playing Survivor.

We ate breakfast at a traditional roadside cafe complete with mini plastic stools. We ordered eggs and they came to our table in a covered bucket of hot water. The waitress instructed us to wait 10 minutes. So we did but when we cracked them open they were raw. Waited another 10 minutes and they were still raw. We just ate our toast. The locals found our confusion very amusing.

<< Brisbane | The Route | Malaysia >>

Sailboats, Surfboards and Islands of Sand

2003-09-29T14:42:00.000-07:00

One last email

Hi all

Well, since last writing I have travelled from Cairns back down to Brisbane.

After leaving Cairns our next couple of stops were Mission Beach and Magnetic Island where we spent time hanging out on the beaches and exploring the rainforest areas. We also spent a night in Townsville where we hooked up with Kirsten's friend Neal. Neal was a great host....even went out and bought a new BBQ to cook our dinner. Have to say the best steak I have eaten in Oz was cooked by a Canadian!!!

After Townsville it was off to Airlie beach from where we set sail on the sailboat Atlanta for three days in the Whitsunday Islands. We had perfect weather....not a cloud was seen for the three days. The Atlanta was a traditional sailboat with the look of a pirate ship. Even Ned, our skipper, bore a striking resemblance to a pirate. Highlights of our sailing trip were Whithaven Beach, the absolute whitest sand and bluest waters I have ever encountered, and snorkeling in Blue Pearl Lagoon. We didn't even need to dive because the visibility was magnificent. Ned informed us that conditions are only that perfect for snorkeling about 5 or 6 times a year. Other than that we spent the days jumping off the sides of the boat, chilling on the deck while we sailed along and counting shooting stars at night.

After Airlie we headed to Town of 1770 which is most famous for being the most northernly surf spot in Australia (as well as one of the cheapest spots to learn). Kirsten and I took advantage of the great prices and signed up for a lesson though admittedly we didn't have much success. Managed to sort of stand up briefly but in our defence the instructor said the conditions were very lousy that day. Was definitely fun though and we are eager to try it again at some of the better spots south of Brisbane.

Our next big stop was Rainbow Beach from where we left for our Fraser Island camping trip. Fraser Island is the world's largest island made up entirely of sand. We were grouped with 8 others, given all our food, camping gear & keys to a 4wd and then let loose on the island for three days. The coast of Fraser Island is a shark breeding ground so no swimming in the ocean. Luckily, the island has plenty of beautiful bodies of fresh water. One of our favourites was Eli creek, which you could wade up and then float with the current all the way back down.

So tonight I am flying to Singapore and will be spending seven weeks travelling overland through Malaysia, Thailand, Laos and Cambodia before returning to Australia in mid November. Admittedly for all the great times I have had here in Oz I am looking forward to the culture shock of Asia.

Lots of love to all,
Alicia

<< Great Barrier Reef | The Route | Singapore >>

Finding Nemo and My Sea Legs

2003-09-08T14:41:00.000-07:00

Another email...

Hi all

Have been back on solid ground for three hours and the ground still seems to be swaying back and forth. Quite the odd sensation.

Anyway, the dive trip was a complete blast. After two days of classroom and pool training we headed out to Reef-tel, the live-aboard boat which stays out on the reef at all times. To get to the reef from Cairns you have to cross two hours of the "marine desert" in one of the day boats. We had a particularly bad day of choppy waters which caused many passengers to lose their breakfast over the sides of the boat. Even Reef-tel was bobbing like crazy in the waves and we were a little concerned since this was to be our home for the next three days.

But eventually we became accustomed to the continual swaying back and forth. Our training dives were good, but the real fun started when we were let loose to explore the reef on our own. We of course saw the standard heaps of colourful fish (including little clown fish forever more known to all as Nemo!) But the highlights were definitely the white tipped sharks that we observed chilling out on the bottom of the ocean and the sea turtle that swam with along side the reef for several minutes. Also, completed my first night dive which involved about ten of us heading down into the pitch black depths with our torches and exploring the coral.

Living aboard the boat also gave us the opportunity to witness some of most spectacular sunsets and sunrises (yes! we were up diving at sunrise!) that I have ever seen.

Anyway, heading tomorrow south to Mission Beach for a couple of chillout days and then on to Magnetic Island for hopefully more diving.

Thanks to everyone who has sent messages the last few days...love getting the updates from home. Hoping to get a chance to reply them all. Email is super cheap here in Cairns so hoping it continues that way down the coast.

Lots of love to all,
Alicia

<< Far North Queensland | The Route | Cairns to Brisbane >>

Where did all my money go???

2003-09-02T14:37:00.000-07:00

My typical lazy self is using some old emails to fill in this section of my blog...some pics to follow

Hi all

So I have had a few questions as to my lack of email updates in the past couple of months. I decided to spare you all the tedious details of my many days spent working/hanging out in the Brisbane area and took a brief hiatus. Anyway, Kirsten and I are on the road again so thought I would let you all know what I am up to.

We flew from Brisbane to Cairns last Thursday and we greeted by three days of black clouds and rain in "Sunny" north Queensland. We spent some time running in and out of travel agencies investigating the best deals on travel activities for east coast Australia. Cairns is the backpacker mecca of Australia (and quite possibly the world!) so there is tons of competition for my money. Every shop seems to be either a travel agency, digeredoo shop or "The #1 Backpacker Bar in Oz"

Anyway, after painfully shelling out a substantial amount of my hard earned dollars from the past few months we booked our dive course and other "must do" activities for our trip down the coast over the next month.

On Saturday we headed to far north Queensland. After all the time spent in cities during the past months the calm of the rainforest and beaches was a welcome relief. On September 1st (the first day of Aussie spring) the sun finally made an appearance and I have started to lose the glow of my pale white canadian skin.

We spent a couple of nights just north of the Daintree River at a spot called Crocodylus. Sadly, no spottings of the infamous Aussie Crocs. But we were surrounded my rainforest wildlife. Shocking that a place continually filled with the noise of the birds, insects and other wildlife could be so peaceful. Our beds were housed in large tent/cabin hybrids and I was forced to quickly dispell my rodent fears when I was told of the small rainforest mice that come out to feed at night. Even more so when we awoke on our first morning to find one had chewed through Kirsten's daypack in search of an empty candy wrapper she had neglected to remove!

So now we are back in Cairns and eager to start our dive course tomorrow morning which includes a three day liveaboard out on the reef.

Lots of love to all,
Alicia

<< Brisbane | The Route | Great Barrier Reef >>

Trying not to Panic

2003-05-07T07:07:00.000-07:00

The days leading up to the big departure were chaotic as was to be expected. But throwing in the extra obstacle of having only just completed my first marathon and the muscle soreness that ensues in the subsequent days made my motivation to continue packing quite lax.

Tim came by for a final good-bye and I was still in the weeding out stage. We experimented with packing techniques but not matter how well I thought my attempt was going the bag wouldn't hold more than its 75 litres. Funny that?

I think in general the airport goodbyes went rather well. Minimal parental nagging and a sufficient number of tears to satisfy everyone that while we were excited to be leaving we would still miss home.

We managed to board the plane with nearly all our belongings minus one black jumper belonging to yours truly. I ran off the plane and there it was still lying on the chair in the waiting area. I tried not to think about what sort of sign that was. I am sure nearly losing my first possession only a few hours after leaving home meant absolutely nothing.

The flight to LA was uneventful with lots of room to sprawl out. Kirsten and I wandered LAX during our stopover in hopes of spotting some notable celebrities but it was a fruitless search. To this day the most famous person I have ever seen in an airport was Alan Thicke of Growing Pains fame.

Kirsten and I took a sleeping pill for the long flight to the Cook Islands (via Tahiti) We were forced to disembark the plane in Tahiti for a short while and the humidity was certainly a shock to the system. Of course it was much magnified by our ensemble of jeans, sweatshirts and hiking boots. (One thing I've learned from travelling is that wearing ones bulkiest items while in transit quickly becomes a necessity)

Finally we arrived in the Cook Islands just before sunrise. We were loving the quarantine dogs sniffing everyone's bags. Especially the giant golden lab that also proceeded to hump suitcases on the carousel.

At the airport our driver to Vara's Guesthouse greeted us with many Kia Orana's (the only Maori saying I would learn as English is so widely spoken in Rarotonga) There is only one sealed road on the island the circumnavigates the 32km circumference. The drive to the guesthouse gave us splendid views of the ocean and the sunrise. It was also Kirsten's first experience driving on the left hand side of the road.

After arriving in our room we quickly crashed out for several hours to alleviate the jet lag effects.

<< The Route | Australia >>